- USB outlets should have their own Cat6 each to achieve 60W per outlet. If you only need 30W per outlet, it’s ok to put up to 2 USB outlets on a single Cat6 homerun. It’s not recommended to connect a switch or sensor to ports containing a USB outlet.
- Large blinds and shades may require a Cat6 if the motor watts is above 30W.
- Treat leak detectors like sensors and connect to the nearest device (light, switch, or outlet). They are all addressable so the port does not matter.
- Generally, daisy chaining devices will reduce the need for Y-splitter/combiners which can be tight in small boxes, as most devices have 2 RJ45 jacks built in. Some SIBs have a 3rd RJ45 jack for connecting a switch without a separate splitter, but it’s usually easier to run the wires in a daisy chain vs changing the SIB on the fixture. Lights often have space above them, so the Y-splitter/combiner has plenty of space. There’s also the MFF style splitter with one Male and two Female RJ45 jacks that is super quick to use over lights when a switch leg is needed on a light that is not the last in a chain.
- If the number of bulbs in a bulb-style fixture may change, for example a Chandelier may have 3 small bulbs initially but be replaced with a 7 bulb fixture later, use Cat6 (Yellow). Remember the maximum current from the RJ45 port is 1200mA (1.2A), so total up the current draw from the bulbs and be sure it’s less than 1.2A or the driver protection circuit will activate and tell you to lower the total bulb wattage before it can continue.
- LED Strips can draw a large current, so do the same calculation as with bulbs. The design tool can help select the right size strip allowed per port. If you think you’ll need more wattage total, use the Cat6, or run a Cat5 for control and a separate 16/2 for power.
